
Lobster in Maine
Season 2 Episode 206 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Capri Cafaro harvests lobster and sees how they’re celebrated in coastal Maine.
Capri explores regional traditions surrounding lobster in Maine. She visits the largest lobster festival in Maine; boards a working lobster boat; experiences a traditional lobster boil on a private island; and gets a taste of Togo through two lobster driven dishes at restaurant Me Lon Togo.
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America the Bountiful is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Lobster in Maine
Season 2 Episode 206 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Capri explores regional traditions surrounding lobster in Maine. She visits the largest lobster festival in Maine; boards a working lobster boat; experiences a traditional lobster boil on a private island; and gets a taste of Togo through two lobster driven dishes at restaurant Me Lon Togo.
Problems with Closed Captions? Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[boat engine starts] [Capri] In coastal Maine, the summer months herald one of the most legendary catches in all of America: fresh lobster.
Generations of lobster men and woman have spent their lives on the cold Gulf waters.
>>I bought this boat off of my grandmother.
[Capri] And waiting ashore are legions of hungry visitors hoping for a taste.
Mmm.
Perfectly simple.
Maine maintains some serious feasting traditions.
[man] We're going to be cooking in salt water, ocean water.
[Capri] Why do that?
>>It gives a great flavor.
[Capri] Taking inspiration from the Gulf of Guinea to the Gulf of Maine.
>>There's so much explosion of flavor.
>>That's the best way that I could possibly describe this.
I'm Capri Cafaro and I'm on a mission to uncover the incredible stories of the foods we grow... ...harvest, create... ...and celebrate.
Beautiful, amazing meal.
So, I'm traveling America's backroads to learn our cherished food traditions from those who make them possible... Look at that.
...and are helping keep them alive.
There is so much more to learn.
Whoa!
[Capri] On "America the Bountiful."
[announcer] America's farmers have nourished us for generations, but today they face unprecedented challenges.
American Farmland Trust works with farmers to help save the land that sustains us.
Together we can work to keep America bountiful.
[upbeat music] [Capri] Though there are nearly 50 million species of lobster eaten worldwide, many shellfish aficionados purport the seasonal soft-shell Maine lobster to be the sweetest and most tender of them all.
The cold waters of the Gulf of Maine provide a perfect habitat for lobsters to flourish and infuse their meat with a combination of sweet flavor and just enough firmness to break into chunks for a lobster roll.
Commercial lobster fishing forms a major part of the economy in coastal Maine.
And lobstermen harvest roughly 100 million every year for export making up over 80% of the national market.
Here in Rockland, love for this spiny crustacean is on full display during the annual Maine Lobster Festival... ...known for its uniquely challenging foot race across lobster traps.
Cathy Billings is a lifelong Mainer who has spent her career working alongside the lobster industry.
>>Here we are at Lobster Fest which has been going on for almost 80 years now.
And I can't think of anybody better suited to tell me a little bit about the lobster industry and how important it is to Maine than you because you come from the Lobster Institute at the University of Maine.
I had no idea there even was a Lobster Institute, but I think that just shows how important lobster is to these communities.
>>Well, if you're talking about the actual fishery, we can go back to 1605.
Captain Waymouth came over from England with a crew and they were the first to record a lobster catch.
-Okay.
-Yep.
[Cathy]There's actually evidence of Native Americans having consumed lobsters even before the colonists got here.
>>Not surprised.
>>So, prior to the 1600's.
They found shell mittens when they arrived where there had been encampments and they found lobster shells and clam shells and muscle shells.
So, definitely, the Native Americans consumed lobster.
In my theory, it's the Native American women who were the first to actually catch the lobsters because it was more of a harvesting than a fishing.
>>Right.It makes sense.
It makes sense.
Lobsters were not the luxury that they are today that we think it's this big, fancy meal.
It was kind of the opposite before the lobster industry really blossomed.
>>Right.
Some would even call it "poppers food."
The lobstermen themselves were making lobster sandwiches before the lobster roll came around as a commercial product.
[upbeat music] [Capri] Lobster rolls are considered a delicacy all along the east coast.
But here in Maine, they've elevated it to a fine art and simplicity is key.
The lump lobster meat is tossed lightly with seasoned mayo and served on a butter toasted roll.
>>This is really sweet.
>>Perfectly simple.
[Cathy] Yep, just a toasted bun.
>>I just love the freshness contrasted with the butter of the roll and a little touch of mayo, I can taste in there.
>>Yeah, it's classic.
You don't want any more than this.
Just a little bit of that mayo.
A little bit of crunch.
Perfect.
>>Well, now that I know a little bit of history about lobster and Maine, now it's time for me to see how it's done and how they catch that lobster to get on our table.
>>Well, have fun.
You'll be getting up early.
>>Oh, I bet.
[upbeat music] [Capri] For many, living along the coast of Maine, connection with their maritime heritage is not just history, but everyday life.
That's true for Krista Tripp who has been fishing and lobstering in the Gulf of Maine for most of her life.
Krista manages the legal limit of 800 lobster traps located in the waters around her home in South Thomaston... ...in addition to running an oyster farming business.
>>I was born and raised here in Maine.
This is the town that I grew up in.
I am a true-blue Mainer, or should I say Maina, because we put "a" at the end of everything.
Yeah.
So, I was just born and raised into it.
My father was a lobsterman.
Is a lobsterman.
My grandfather was a lobsterman.
My uncle.
My brother.
My aunts worked on the stern of lobster boats.
My sisters were all in this business and this industry.
>>Wow, it really does run deep.
When did you get your start?
>>I started going on my father's boat when I was very young.
I've always naturally just loved the ocean.
I love being out in the elements.
Probably more so when I was like 8 or 9 is when I really started to go with him more often.
And then I started captaining my own boat when I was 15 years old.
[Capri] My goodness.
Now that's not this actual boat, but this boat, I understand, has a family history.
>>It does.
This was my grandfather's boat.
He had this boat for a very long time, and when he passed, I bought this boat off my grandmother.
And so, it's been able to stay in the family.
[mellow music] >>Give me a little bit of an understanding of what these do and how they work to get the lobsters in?
>>Yeah so, I've baited this one first trap, and I'll just show you kind of the process and how we bait our traps here.
>>Okay.
>>I'm assuming this whole mess here is bait?
[Krista] Yes, this is bait.
This is called menhaden, also known as pogies, is what we call it around here.
And we either use bay bags or we just spear it right on the bait iron.
And we also use pig hide here in Maine.
>>Pig hide?
I've seen fish be used for bait and things like crabs, but pig hide I've never seen.
Why?
>>Yeah.
This stays on our traps for a lot longer period.
When we're baiting our traps with this, if there's ever a storm or anything like that, or we can't get out fishing, we come back to our traps, and this is still on the traps, so we know our traps are still fishing.
This is called a bait line right here.
How do I-- >>Yeah, you just stick it through the eye.
>>Like a needle.
>>Yep, and then you just give it a good, you know-- Push it down all the way.
>>There you go.
Look at that.
>>You're a natural.
I always tie my traps like my grandfather tied them in.
>>And he had a special way of doing it.
He always put a loop after he wrapped it around like this.
And he kind of like, twisted it on there like that and pulled down.
You're such a good apprentice.
Your grandfather's stuff is still ringing true today.
>>Oh yes, yes.
It's definitely still very fresh in my brain from when I went with him.
[Capri] Krista weighs the baited traps down with bricks and lets them sink to the bottom where lobsters are enticed to enter for a snack.
>>All right.
So, the tank is filling up with water now for the lobsters, but we got to actually get the lobsters out of the water, the ocean, onto the boat.
What's next?
>>We're going to go haul some lobster traps.
[Capri] Krista secures a nearby buoy with a hooked pole called a gaff.
The buoy connects to the traps with a special line that is designed to break if it comes into contact with larger sea life.
[Krista] This snaps under 1,700 pounds of pressure.
And if a whale got caught in the rope, tangled up, then they would be able to break this and break free.
>>Exactly.
They would be able to break free.
So, you're going to clean your trap out of the lobsters.
We're going to put the lobsters in here.
This is called the culling box.
This is where we measure the lobster.
[Capri] Okay.
>>And then we band the lobster up here.
The babies, we throw over.
>>This one is ginormous.
>>Whoa!
Capri, you're going to eat that one.
[giggling] So, when you're measuring a lobster, you want to put this measuring tool into the eye socket like this and measure straight down along the back like this.
And if this doesn't go over the end of his back right here, then it's counter.
>>Okay.
>>So, you're measuring his body.
>>The V notches are telling you that it was an egg bearing female lobster.
>>Okay.
So, we don't keep any egg bearing female lobsters.
We V notch them.
We throw them back.
So, if you haul one up and you see a notch in it-- >>Then it's got to go back.
It's got to go back.
You can't keep it.
So, this one is an egg bearing female lobster.
You can see the eggs on it right here.
[Capri] Oh, whoa!
>>Yeah, and you could tell they're very close to hatching because you see that little dot right there in the middle?
You can see that she's about to hatch her eggs.
[Capri] Oh, my goodness.
>>So, we're going to have to notch this one on her right flipper and then throw her back.
So, I'm going to let you take the honors and notch her tail.
The female ones are a little bit more vicious.
Oh, you did it.
Good job.
See how-- >>Yep, they got that little V notch.
>>That V notch in there.
What we're going to do now is we're going to band these lobsters and get them in the tank.
And this is what we use.
This is called a bander.
And the way to band a lobster is you just kind of put it on, twist it towards yourself like that.
It snaps right on their claw.
>>I'm leaving this one to you because I don't trust myself at all.
>>So, when people come to Maine, they're looking for soft-shell, new shell lobster.
And what that means is that the meat in a soft-shell lobster is going to be a lot more tender.
It's going to be sweeter.
It's something that you don't get at a lot of restaurants because a lot of restaurants will carry the hard-shell lobster.
>>Boy Krista, I have so much respect for the lobster men and women.
I mean, the number of steps of things that you have to do to get a lobster on our table, we'll never take that for granted again that's for sure.
>>That's wonderful to hear, because we put a lot of work into doing what we do and catching lobster and delivering it to you guys.
>>Well, let's keep getting more lobsters because we're going to need more to feed all those people.
>>Oh, yes.
[Capri] After pulling enough traps to sell her typical volume of catch, anywhere between 700 and 1,000 pounds during peak season, Krista sets her coordinates for Tommy's Island.
It's a three-acre island that's been in the family for three generations.
First purchased by Krista's grandfather, intended as a place for extended family and friends to gather and enjoy the beauty and bounty of the area.
Krista's aunt, Jetta, collects seawater while her Uncle Bryan prepares the pot for boiling the lobsters caught earlier.
>>Perfect.
Thank you.
[Capri] This place is beautiful.
I mean, I'm totally taken aback by this.
Everybody knows how beautiful Maine is, but this feels special.
It feels different.
And I know it has a special place in your heart because there's family history here.
>>This island was nothing but covered with just fields and prickly stuff all over the place.
>>And you had to be careful.
There were no paths.
And you had to be careful where you walked because there were seagull eggs everywhere.
>>Oh, whoa.
>>There were nests all over the place.
Yeah.
So, we'd come out and we'd just have a little cookout on the beach.
Then we started to have really big gatherings, live bands, lobster feasts.
>>How important is that to that Maine culture when it comes to lobster and bringing people together around a giant lobster pot like this?
>>Maine is based on lobster.
It is just a huge staple to everyone that comes here, to everyone that lives here, to everyone that works here, because the whole economy is based on lobster.
>>There's a lot of pride in it, I think, too.
>>Yeah, a lot of pride in it.
>>I can tell that.
I mean, and a ton of work that goes into putting these lobsters on our table.
And there are a million ways to prepare lobster, but the lobster boil is special.
It has a lot of history and I'm sure you have your own way of preparing your lobster boil.
How are you bringing this lobster boil together today?
>>Well, we got a brand-new burner this year which is great.
First time we're going to use it.
Giant pot.
>>I feel honored.
>>You're breaking it in.
>>So, what's going on underneath the lid?
>>Under the lid, that's salt water.
We're going to cook them in salt water.
>>Now, salt water from the ocean or salt like-- >>No, from the ocean water.
>>--water salted.
-Ocean water.
-Why do that?
>>It gives a great flavor.
-Yeah?
-I prefer it that way.
Some people like just to use fresh water with salt, but I prefer it this way.
>>Well, it's right there.
>>I mean, it's right there.
>>Might as well use that natural resource, and it's the natural habitat for these guys, too.
>>Yeah, gives it a good flavor.
Yeah.
[Capri] After boiling in the salt water for about 15 minutes, the lobsters are ready to be set on a bed of seaweed as a coastal buffet.
The lobsters are served with sides of corn on the cob, salad, potato salad and of course melted butter.
This is some serious, serious lobster.
-It's so good.
-Delicious.
>>I can't believe you guys get to do this all the time.
Most of the time when you see lobster in a restaurant there's crackers, there's a plastic bib, there's all this stuff that goes on, but you all are just digging right into it.
No tools.
So, you're going to have to help me because I have no idea where to start.
>>Yeah, of course.
So, it's really-- Soft-shell lobster is really easy to break apart because the shell is soft.
It's a new shell.
But what we'll start first with are the claws.
[Capri] Okay.
>>So, you want to hold the lobster like so and then you just twist the claw off like that.
They pop right off.
>>Boop, like so.
[Krista] Yes, just like that.
And the other one the same way, just twist it off.
[Capri] A little prickly.
>>And then the tail, the same thing.
You hold the body and then you twist the tail and that just comes off like that.
[Capri] Mmm hmm.
And then for the flippers, you can twist off the whole thing, but I like to personally-- I like to do all the flippers individually.
>>And you twist those.
Yep, you just twist them off and they pop right off.
[Capri] You are right, this is a lot easier than I anticipated.
>>Yes.
I have some butter for you right there if you prefer.
>>I'm so excited.
[Capri] Sweet.
[Jetta] I never get tired of it.
>>And tender.
[Bryan] Very consistent.
>>So, this has to be-- If I had access to a beautiful private island and all this friends and family, I would just-- This would have to be my most favorite way to celebrate together.
[Krista] Oh yeah.
Absolutely.
[Bryan] What we're going to do, we're going to clean the back.
[Krista] Push the tail through.
Push it right out.
[Capri] Okay.
>>You're not getting quite enough tail off of there.
>>And then you-- Oh!
[Krista giggles] Look at that.
Look at that.
[Krista] And then you just peel the tail back like that.
Mmm.
>>Again, incredibly sweet but a little bit firmer than maybe the claw for example.
Is there a reason for that?
>>A little bit more muscular because they use their tails for swimming.
>>Makes sense.
>>So, they're using their tail a little bit more.
>>Backwards?
>>They swim backwards.
[Capri] They swim backwards?
>>The tail goes like this-- >>Ah that makes-- Of course, of course.
The tail goes backwards while they go forwards.
A little bit like rowing a boat.
>>Right, exactly.
Yeah.
>>This is the thing: this is exactly why people want to go to Maine because this is a totally different lobster experience then you would have in a restaurant.
>>Oh, of course.
Yeah.
>>You've got to be on a beach.
>>Thank you so, so much.
[Krista] You're very welcome.
>>For showing me how hard it is to get such an incredible piece of food on our tables.
We appreciate everything that you do.
>>You're very welcome.
>>All right let's eat up.
[all chatter in agreement] [Capri] As the Tripp family shows, simple and classic preparation is all that's needed for an all-star summer lobster feat.
But lobster can also shine when combined with more complex flavors and spices, as is the case at a Rockland restaurant, Mé Lon Togo.
Here chef and musician, Jordan Benissan, shares food and culture from his West African home country of Togo through a variety of creative dishes.
Jordan prepares locally caught lobster tails and claws and uses them as the centerpiece for his jollof rice and Cioppino, which he serves alongside family recipes passed down from his mother.
>>So, how exciting is that for you to be able to share a piece of your family's food traditions with the community here in Rockland and in Maine?
>>Well, it is very exciting and also, it makes me very proud of what I learn from home the way I was raised and brought up.
And sharing my family recipe, it is a continuation of what my mom pass on to us.
>>I think you're going to share one of these special dishes with me today, too.
[Jordan] Yes.
>>What's on the menu for me?
I have West African jollof rice.
It is a very popular rice dish in West Africa.
It is almost like the way different cultures, the way they enjoy rice.
And they always have like a national popular dish.
Right.
Jollof rice is a very festive national rice dish that people call when they are having a big celebration.
Well, I'm excited to taste this because I feel like this is a celebration just getting to know you and Togolese's cuisine and how you're adapting it.
Also, educate the folks here in Maine about the tastes that you've grown up with.
The complex taste of jollof rice comes primarily from its sauce which combines fresh vegetables, a bouquet of herbs, and layers of spices to create a symphony of flavor.
[Capri] Look at this.
[Jordan] Yes.
[Capri] Wow.
I got that.
We got some rice here.
I think I got a little bit of everything.
All right.
Mmm.
Okay, so there's something that-- It's like, almost sweet and savory.
So, there's something that's bringing in some heat.
Something that might be almost like a cinnamon type flavor as well.
Some kind of warmth.
>>Yeah.
>>That brings a little bit of sweetness into it.
>>Yeah.
>>So, tell me a little bit about the spices you use.
>>The blend of the spices is what you, for example, find in Cajun.
[Capri] Right.
>>And a little bit of South America, the blend of spices used for mole sauce.
>>Oh yes, mole sauce.
Okay.
So, combine all of those different spices.
It really brings a combination of flavor that when you eat the food it's almost like an explosion of flavor.
>>That's the best way that I could possibly describe this.
It's an explosion of flavor.
>>Yes.
>>And its unique.
Now, lobster is not necessarily native to Togo.
So, what made you bring the lobster onto the plate with the Jollof Rice that's so well known as a dish in West Africa?
>>You know, I got this idea that maybe I need to mix things up a little.
Maybe put some modern, European dishes on the menu also and have a combination of both.
And then maybe with a little bit of a curiosity they might want to taste or try one of the African dishes their friend orders just to see how it tastes.
>>I love that because everybody has a little bit of a different comfort level.
You're right about that.
>>But you don't know what you don't know and until you try it-- >>Yeah.
--you have no idea.
But if somebody else ordered this and I didn't, I would definitely want a taste of this.
>>But I want to try the Italian dish that you mentioned.
Oh, right.
The Cioppino.
[Capri] Jordan takes the sauce from the Jollof Rice and emulsifies it with white wine to create the base for his lobster Cioppino.
>>Wow!
Okay.
Let me move this out of the way to give some space to this incredible dish which again, looks like lobster is the star of the show.
But it's in a bowl, so what's going on here?
It's an Italian American seafood dish.
It has shrimp, scallop, and lobster.
>>Are you using anything?
I mean, I definitely taste the hot pepper in here.
>>Yes.
But, are you also using anything that might have almost like a licorice type flavor?
-Yes.
-Okay.
>>Anise seeds.
>>Anise.
I knew it.
I knew it.
Us Italians, we do love anise seeds.
I bake with them.
>>That's it.
>>But this is a taste treat.
[Jordan] Yes.
When I start sharing my homecooking with colleagues and students, they're the one who brought up the idea that I should open a restaurant because they said there is nobody cooking food like this.
It really breaks my heart sometimes when a lot of bad things happen and it's related to race, you know what I mean?
Color of people's skin.
I feel very blessed that when people come to my restaurant and try my food and really realize that we are all the same, you know?
[Capri] I love that.
>>We are all human, you know.
[Capri] That's right.
Food is the universal language.
>>It is, yeah.
>>So, whether you are from Africa, Europe, South America or right here in Maine, you're going to be welcomed at your table, Jordan.
So, thank you for welcoming me... >>Yes.
...with such an incredible, warm and hearty meal.
>>Yes, thank you, Capri.
Thank you.
[Capri] Whether simmered in Togolese spices or boiled and enjoyed al fresco overlooking the cool waters that shape its flavor, Maine lobster beckons everyone to take a seat at the New England table.
While lobster has rolled with its steady climb in prestige over the past 150 years, New Englanders have always appreciated and enjoyed sharing this delicacy with friends, neighbors and visitors alike.
It's a feasting tradition that's made this great state a global culinary destination.
But why take my word for it, when you can come experience it for yourself.
America The Bountiful is waiting for you and me.
For more information visit Americathebountifulshow.com.
[announcer] America's farmers have nourished us for generations, but today they face unprecedented challenges.
American Farmland Trust works with farmers to help save the land that sustains us.
Together we can work to keep America bountiful.
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America the Bountiful is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television